Dec 18, 2007

Saucy Italian Beef Braciole


Tender steak rolls wrapped around Italian salami, Romano cheese, raisins and pine nuts....traditional  everyday Italian food.  Don't be tempted to use a bottled pasta sauce, for  very simple reasons:  taste, and tradition.  Braciole is a  family dish, and the sauce is just as important as the meat.  In the past, when families couldn't afford  much meat, the sauce would have been even more important, because the family members  would have enjoyed the bite or two of meat that was their  allotment, and satisfied their hunger by mopping up the sauce with their bread. The sauce  requires no precooking so it is not at all labor-intensive.  It's only as involved as  putting the ingredients  in a pot.

While I  usually serve these delicious beef rolls with pasta, it is just as often served in Italy with potatoes.  I think it's uniquely  American to assume everything Italian  is or comes with pasta but  I do like it with bucatini (very thick hollow spaghetti), cavatappi,  or spaghetti....pasta with a lot of chewy substance  seems right with the sauce and steak.    Like meatloaf, every Italian family has their preferred version of  what they use to  stuff braciole, and I've tried many of them; some use   Parmesan,  variations on the chosen  Italian hams ( capicola, etc);  even cooked Italian sausage, the list is endless. This is the one I prefer.

First, the rich, quick sauce:
Italian Gravy:  Just put all the following  ingredients in a large, heavy pot  (remember to allow space for the meat later). Bring it to boiling,  lower the heat and  simmer for 30 minutes or until thick and rich. That's the point where you'll add the meat unless you plan to cook  it together for an extra 30 minutes.    

2  29-oz cans tomato  puree, 3 cloves minced garlic,  1/2 c. chopped onion, 1/2 c. chopped parsley, 1-2 c. fresh mushrooms, sliced, 3/4 c. Burgundy or Cabernet  wine, 2 TB dry basil,  1 TB dry oregano, 2 tsp. salt, 1 TB sugar, 1/2 tsp pepper, 1 1/2 c water.  This freezes well, and makes about 8 cups.

Back to the beef....
Be sure  the beef is sliced quite thin....by the time it gets  rolled up it will be thick on its own accord, and we want it to  be fork-tender without cooking off the sauce or spending all day simmering.   Start  with the most vital step: choosing the beef.    Buy  4  (full-size)  slices of top round steak.....1/4" thick.    Call a day ahead and  ask the meat department to cut the slices for you and emphasize the thinness.  Tell them you actually want it 1/8" thick, like scallopini.  If  not, when you get it home, put it between  pieces of plastic wrap and  pound the hell out of them til they are about 1/8" , which is pretty much un-measurable. I think I figure at least 1/3 lb per person. In summary, it's not  too thin unless you can read through it! If you're using  really big pieces, you'll cut them into 2 or 3 rolls before browning.  Using small pieces you may just make one roll each,  about 4-5" long.  

Leave the steak on the bottom piece of plastic.  Season each piece with salt and pepper, and  garlic salt.    Then on  each,  sprinkle  2-3 TB.  grated romano cheese, preferably fresh,   a thin layer of prosciutto  and/or  very thinly sliced  hard or genoa salami,  about 2 TB  dark raisins, 1 TB pine nuts,  and  1 TB chopped flat-leaf  parsley.

Lift the edges of  the plastic wrap and let it help you get the roll started...roll up  tightly, jellyroll fashion, and tie each roll  every 2" or so with cotton string. Let the ends dnagle after you tie the knot, it will help  locate the string later so you can  remove it before serving.   Brown the rolls  on all sides in  a little hot olive oil, then cover with Italian gravy ( that's 'sauce' to us) and simmer until the meat is tender, somewhere between 60 and 90 minutes, it should be very tender.   The length of time will depend on the thickness of the rolls. If  unsure, cut a roll in half and check  the tenderness of an inside edge.  It should be fork-tender.   Or if they seem to be getting tender too slowly, ( probably because the beef was too thick) cut  bigger rolls in half to speed it up just a bit.

With pasta this  may serve 8 or more.   Cut the strings, serve with  the sauce and sprinkle a little parlsey on top for color.